The Coleman lift system is a very interesting animal. Hard to find information and manuals for, hard to find parts. Since I had such a hard time, I decided to scan and post the manuals that I found when I was fixing my 84 Coleman and post those repair documents here on RVHobby.com for you. Enjoy!

Enter your email address below to instantly download the Coleman and Fleetwood Lift Systems Repair Manual:

Parts list: http://www.fft-inc.com/korkwerks/1968_1995/tableoc.htm

If the parts list link above doesn’t work try a google cached copy: http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:http://www.fft-inc.com/korkwerks/1968_1995/tableoc.htm

One of the most asked questions I get is how to paint interior walls on an RV. As most interiors come from the manufacture in stark white, it is only natural for one to want to personalize their RV and one of the best ways to do that is a coat of paint. That being said, you have to ask yourself if this will affect resale value, make the RV interior feel “smaller” or if you will tire of the color. All of these are valid questions that need to be addressed. Full timers with their RV of choice (i.e. their permanent “home”) are more inclined to tackle this project.

[Show as slideshow]

Using the same techniques to paint hard surface laminates, like Formica, you can apply paint to a vinyl coated wall and have excellent results. While the following steps may seem time consuming, they are all relatively easy, because there is much less actual wall space to paint than in a S&B home.

The first step is to make sure the walls are clean of any grease or oils that may have accumulated over the years. The best product for this would be TSP. It will break down any type of oils and make for a clean palette. The most important part of using TSP though, is to make sure, after you have wiped down the walls with it, that you thoroughly rinse the wall with clean water. Failure to rinse the TSP off, could result the primer and paint coming off in “sheets”! If the walls are new or clean, you could skip the TSP step.

The second step is to “break” the gloss surface of the vinyl. Using a “fine” grade of sandpaper on a sanding block will do the job. Apply light pressure, being carefull not to actually sand down past the layer of vinyl into the luan!

The third step is to remove any dust from the sanding, using a “Tack” rag. These can be purchased in the paint department at the BBS (Big Box Stores) or at any hardware store.

The next step is one of the most time consuming, but the most important one for a professional looking end result: taping. Using blue painters tape (I haven’t tried the new green tape that is supposed to be better) carefully mask off the areas that won’t be painted. Many manufacturers use “gimp” the vinyl round beads that cover the seams at the corders and separate the wall from the ceiling. While it might be a pain in the tail, mask off the gimp at the wall-ceiling junction.

This will give a more professional result, and keep any stray paint off the ceiling if the paint “bleeds” through the tape. Also make sure to sand these gimps that are going to be painted, because paint doesn’t like to stick on them.

To give the paint something to really grip to, using an oil based primer is the next step. While it is tempting to use the latex version of “KILZ” or “BINZ”, everything I have read and have used specifies Oil Based primer. While it is harder to clean up after, the oil based primers are necessary for proper bonding. One note about these primers. Most stores will tint your primer so that it will be easier to cover with your final choice of paint color. The problem with this, is you may find yourself missing areas when applying your final paint, mistaking the primer for an area you have already painted. This wouldn’t be bad with a solid color as you can just go back over it when you catch the miss after it dries. But with any type of “faux” or ragging techniques, it can be a critical mistake. While most of these primers say that they dry within 30 minutes, let the primer cure at least overnight for a good bond.

Finally it is time to apply the paint. What color paint you use is strictly a personal choice. The rules apply in the RV just like in a traditional home. Dark colors will make the room look smaller. That’s probably one of the reasons manufacturers use white walls, lots of mirrors, and brass. Sorry, but that look just makes me think, motel room. But that’s just personal taste. The darker colors, make for a richer, homier look to your RV. IMHO

Another thing to consider is the finish of the paint. In our fulltimer rig, in the living room area, I used Ralph Lauren’s “Suede” paint. This is a faux finish, requiring a special roller and a two step process. While the end result was spectacular, a flat finish is not the most practical for RV use. If there is just the two of you, it would be fine, but pets and/or grandchildren have taken their toll in a couple of years, so I’ll need to be redoing it. An egg shell or semi gloss finish is more practical in an RV. I just finished the bedroom using a Ralph Lauren “antique leather” paint that I used before, and it has the egg-shell finish and is a more practical application as it can be damp rag cleaned. This is again a two step finish using “stipling” brushes. If any of these “faux” techniques appeal to you, buy a quart of the base and glaze and by a 2×2 piece of drywall to practice on. They have a real “wow” factor when finished.

Finally, when removing the tape, be mindful that while using latex paints are wonderful for cleaning, that word “latex” also means that the tape will have a tendancy to try to take some of your wall paint with it. I use a razor knife to carefully score the paint between the tape and the wall for easy removal. And while the paint may dry in just an hour or two, it won’t fully “cure” for a week or two. I realized this when I wanted to see how well the paint bonded to the vinyl the day after I painted. I ran my fingernail over the wall and was shocked to see the paint had come right off! After touching it back up, I left it alone for a week or two and had no more problems with adhesion.

For too many years, manufacturers have given us a wall paper border running throughout the RV and called it “style”. Maybe leaving the walls white is just an invitation for us to use our imagination. Good luck with your project!

On the RV – My screen door just flopped around because the metal magnetic latches were broken.  I decided that this was the easiest and quickest fix and a good place to start with my rv restoration process on this 1982 Fleetwood Jamboree .

1. First I removed the broken latches with a handheld screw driver.
    
    
2. Then I took the broken part over to Al’s RV (a motorhome and trailer parts store in Arizona) to match it up with a new part.  I purchased 2 latches (one for the top of the door and one for the bottom).  This is what one package looked like:
   
    
3. After getting the latches back to my house, I took the original screws and manually screwed them into the door frame with the new latches in place.  Here is the finished piece.
   

In total I spent $7 for the new magnetic latches – and I am very happy with the result

I am in the process of writing a series of step by step articles (with pictures!) about my restoration process. If you would like to be notified about that series then tell me your email address:

I purchased this 84 Coleman Columbia popup tent trailer and started rebuilding it a year ago . I have taken a lot of inspiration and ideas from other people’s rebuild projects that I found on the web.

I started this project a year ago and took pictures along the way (See slideshow below). I was a weekend warrior on this project. It was more like 1-2 weekends a month (and usually just Saturdays). I would have to say a rough guess would put total time at 25 full 16 hour days. The time and cost has spanned over 11 months so far.

I’ll lay out the costs here:

• $30 – new paint (it is oil based, farm tractor paint in white from Neumann Paint and Supply 928-472-9054)
• $17 – HVLP paint sprayer (Harbor Freight)
• $16 – floor tiles
• $23 – Cover material for foam (think vinyl from Wal-Mart)
• $129 – New 3″ Foam (H & R Sales in Phoenix – great place, great price – I HIGHLY recommend them.)
• $25 – 2×2′s & 2×4′s for framing of cabinets.
• $60 – New wood cabinet facials. It is an oak veneer over 1/8″ plywood. (Habitat for Humanity store)
• $15 – New plumbing supplies (hose filter washers, hoses, clamps)
• $70 – New Porta Potti 135 RV (Camping World)
• $30 – New pump (Harbor Freight)
• $75 – Electrical supplies (wire, fuse block, DC outlets, battery box
  - I already had the deep cycle battery from my boat, otherwise that is an additional $65 at least.)
• $70 – odds and ends (screws, nails, light bulbs, etc)

Everything else I had collected as donations from friends garages (like the counter top for the galley, the slide rails for the pull out shelf) and from the trailer itself (galley sink, faucet, hinges, etc.)

And Finally…
Total out the door so far $660. And I have yet to do all the neat Modifications, like hanging shelves etc.

I am in the process of writing a series of step by step articles (with pictures!) about my restoration process.  The first article will be about painting the popup.  If you would like to be notified about that series, please click here.

Here is the slideshow: