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Pop up rear board leak
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Replies: 3 - Pages: [1] - Last reply: 08-27-2010 02:46:03 - By: harryl6134 Post reply
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Hello, I just bought a 1982 coleman colonial this past weekend. I knew that the roof leaked a little because the paper above was wet.  I have that part drying out and plan to rebuild this winter. My issue is the back board. The back wall on the roof can move a little bit if I touch it. I know that the wood is not in that good of shape as some of the wall paper is coming off and I can see the wood. What should I do, either A: leave it as is, patch it up a little here and there, brace it up where the canvas support bar is, and try to make it to winter or B: Replace the wood inside the back and be done with it? With the holiday coming up, I don’t want to start something that I cannot finish in time. If somebody has done this before and has some tips, that would be great. Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks a lot

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I just fisished mine. I have a 1984 shenandoah. the problem with the coleman tops is they start pitting after many years and water gets inside. the Foam on the inside gets wet and rots the wood. Fix the outside first by using some flat roll roofing patch with an aluminium face. It can be found at RV dealers or home impovement centers. then change the wood. its not hard if you’re handy. you’ll need 3/4 polystyrene and 1/4 luan, also found at lumber yards or home improvement centers. you’ll also need a spray adhesive that won’t attack foam board like 3Ms spray adhesive 78. scrap off the old and replace. takes notes as you go so you don’t foget anything and take you’re time. It’ll look great when your done. if you don’t replace the wood eventually the bracket that holds the canvas will come down and you won’t be able to use the camper untill you fix it. Take pics to as a refrence and post when done i’d love to see it.

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harryl6134
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Posts: 1
Registered:
08-27-2010 02:32:33

I have the same issue.  I haven’t torn out the old board yet, so I’m not exactly sure what I’m getting into.  Is the boar cemented into the trailer top cap, or clamped, or both?  Also, has anyone tried using a nominal 1” x 10” board cut to fit?  It’s be heavier, or course, but might have better screw retention…

 

Thanks,

Harry

 

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